The Associated B6.1 kit is impressive enough, but after years of racing, I wanted something pro level to compete with. Race ready car weights in at 1503 grams, near the ROAR limit.

Associated B6.1 front end photo with JConcepts front wing, titanium rods, and shock jewelry.

Associated B6.1 rear end photo with JConcepts titanium rods, shock jewelry, and Exotek MIP modified pucks installed.

Associated B6.1 with modified Mattox humorous chassis skin (Wording is custom and not included with the Mattox skin). I figure either the turn marshal will have an incentive for getting my car, or at least an excuse for any delay.

Associated B6.1 with over-sized rear wing installed. There is a section on this blog as to why I run this modification.

Associated B6.1 with pro level electronics installed. The Maclan ESC is well worth every penny. Custom set up decals are also displayed.

Associated B6.1 with Exotek direct drive installed. Top shaft is Associated, but I went with the Exotek spur and adapter for one reason. Blue is simply faster.

​PARTS LISTING:

​​175RC

• Titanium Piston & Bleeder Screws (10100)

Associated

• Associated B6 Kit (90021)
• Associated B6.1 Doubled-Up Carbon Fiber Front Shock Tower (91768)
• Associated B6 Brass Front Bulkhead  30 Gram (91659)
• Associated B6.1 Brace Rear C Mount 23 Gram (91773)
• Associated B6 Machined Shock Internals and Pistons (91494 & 91627)
• Associated B6 Factory Carbon Fiber Electronics Plate (91754)
• Associated B6 Factory Titanium Screws (Various)
• Associated B6 Ball Stud Washers (31383)
• Associated B6 Ballstuds Ti Nitride 5mm & 8mm Short (31291 & 31292)
• Associated B6 Rear Wing Mount Extended Spacers Installed (91718)

Custom

• Valkyrie RC Motorsports Set Up Decals
• Valkyrie RC Motorsports Ceramic Diff Ball Set
• Extended Rear Wing Panels
• Graphite Idler Gear Shaft
• Custom painted body and decals
• Mattox Modified Chassis Skin (Hot Dots)

Electronics

• Associated Reedy RT1408 Servo (27109)
• AMB Transponder
• Maclan Pro 160 Amp ESC (MCL2003)
• Maclan V2 Team Edition 17.5 Brushless Motor (MCL1034)
• Spektrum SR2010 Receiver (SPMSR2010)
• Tekin Sensor Lead 150 mm (3839)

Exotek Racing

• Titanium Flite Front Axles (1690)
• Titanium Rear CVA Axle Barrels (1792)
• Titanium 67 mm Rear Puck Bones (1782)
• Titanium battery chassis mounts (1710)
• Carbon Fiber Battery Brace (1706)
• Direct Drive Kit Blue & Flite Spur Gear (1726)
• Aluminum Servo Horn Blue (Varies)

JConcepts

• Titanium Finned Tie Rod Set (2580)
• Titanium Finned Upper Shock Mounts (2599T & 2600T)
• Aluminum Steering Rack Blue (25825-1)
• Aluminum Steering Bellcrank Blue (2565-1)
• Aluminum Servo Brace Blue (2567-1)
• Shock VCS Upper Shock Caps Upper Blue (2490-1)
• Shock VCS Finned Shock Caps Lower Blue (2492-1)
• Shock VCS Adjust Collars Blue (2491-1)
• Shock Seals Blue (1403)
• Wheels Yellow Front & Rear (3376Y & 3348Y)
• Front Lower Wing & Mount (2547-3)
• Brass Rear D Mount (2572B)
• Milled Laydown Motorplate (2408-1)
• Rear Ball Stud Mount (2409-1)

Kyosho

• Aluminum 3 mm Shims Blue (W0143)

Lunsford Racing

• 3 mm Fat Boy Motor Screw For Servo (7901)
• Titanium Ball Stud Kit (7705)
• Titanium Motor Screws (7932)

MIP

• 67 mm Puck CVD System (17131)

Revolution Design Racing Products

• B6 Carbon Fibre Front Bulkhead Brace (RDRP0292)
• B6 Carbon Fibre Steering Stiffener (RDRP0273)
• B6 Titanium Steering Screw Set (RDRP0306)
• B6 Titanium Lower Shock Screw Set (RDRP0305)
• B6 Titanium Hinge Pin Set (RDRP0282)

Schelle

• Rear Hub Carriers With 67 mm Inserts (1235)
• Type 1 Carbon Fiber Arms (1273)
• Carbon Fiber Front Bulkhead Shims (1279)
• Ceramic Diff Caged Thrust Bearing (1084)

Team Xtreme

• Cut Diff & Idler Gears

T-Works

• Hard Coated 7075-T6 Aluminum Pivot Balls (N/A)

RC racing can get expensive. Tires and wheels are a big part of a racer's expenses. I have found a few tips that will save you money by being able to reuse normally discarded wheels or tires.

• Use a pair of sharp curved hobby scissors to remove the treaded section of the tire carcass (if salvaging both the tire and the wheel, skip this step and read below regarding foam).
• Remove any internal foam from the tire. Inspect for damage and or wear. If usable, tire foam should be good for a number of runs in new tires. Not all tires on the market come with foams, and this of course, costs more to replace.
• Place wheel in a ceramic or glass container with Acetone, or nail polish remover, to soak off the glue residue. Both contain Acetone, the pure Acetone will work faster than the nail polish remover. I have had some tires that came off in about an hour, but in some cases an overnight soak was required.
• A final scraping of glue residue with a hobby knife may be required, but it will chip off easily.
• Wash with dish soap and water, allow to dry, and reuse the wheels.

Foam: This process can also be used to salvage tires that are mis-glued, or tires mounted on a differing brand or vehicle wheel then you normally use. If doing so, ensure that the container has enough room to contain the internal foam as it may swell many times its normal size. Foams treated in this manner are normally degraded by the Acetone and should be replaced.

Note: Acetone is highly flammable, and should be kept away from open flame, and placed in a rated sealed container when not in use. Rated gloves and eye protection are recommended. Container used for this tip should be clearly marked as not for human or animal consumption. Acetone is poisonous. Container should be covered and kept away from children and pets for this reason. Excess Acetone and any resulting residue should be discarded properly. Last, not all RC plastics are the same. I have run into a few wheels where the plastic was damaged by this process, mainly some vintage rims. If wheels are painted, the finish may be dissolved along with the glue. If concerned, spot check first prior to soaking.

​One of the interests I have with RC is experimenting with new concepts. Granted, this is something I picked up a number of years ago from a sponsored Trinity / Losi driver, but I have expanded on it, perhaps too far. You can shrink a RC to 1:10 scale, but you cannot shrink the atmosphere, or the forces acting on it. As such, the only way to compensate is to increase the size of wings in use. In general, the only times that aerodynamic forces come into play off-road is when the vehicle is airborne and on the straights. These tips will not change slow speed driving as there is little airflow during these times. An increased side damn (vertical) will help with tracking down the straightway, and both the angle of attack (angle of wing compared to the ground) and the size of the airfoil (horizontal) will result in changes during jumps and down force traction on the straights. I have found improved lap times with the simple enlargement of the rear wing, especially on slick tracks. You can either simply increase the stock cut out from the manufacturer, (I know going outside the cut lines seems odd) or add additional sections as needed. As with tires, I have been playing with a selection of wings as an additional tuning tool, albeit one a hell of a lot less expensive than the cost of rubber.